2002 Domaine Daniel & Martine Barraud Pouilly-Fuissé En Bulands Vieilles Vignes
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Consistently my favorite of Martine and Daniel Barraud’s Pouilly-Fuisses is their En Bulands Vieilles Vignes, and 2002 is no exception. Its profound nose displays an unreal concentration of minerals, pears, and spices. Lush, broad, and softly textured, this medium-bodied beauty combines fabulous precision with power, depth, refinement, and focus. White fruits, verbena, quinine, minerals, and hints of red currants can be found throughout its profound character as well as in its lime-tinged finish. This wine is a grand cru in all but name. Projected maturity: 2006-2014. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; the other wines are Peter Vezan Selections (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-65-42-93), various importers including Michael Skurnik in NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Pierre Rovani
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(from 70-year-old Vergisson vines facing northwest; picked in two passes in 2002; this cuvee got 35% new oak, the highest of any of Barraud's 2002s) Knockout nose combines peach, apricot, orange peel, flowers and powdered stone, with hints of toast and coconut; smells cool and dense. Then powerfully minerally and penetrating, with terrific stony density of flavor and superb backbone. Wonderfully ripe, complex, vibrant Pouilly-Fuisse with an impressively long, firm finish that really stains the palate. Despite the northwest exposure, this is a not a cool spot and the vines here always ripen very well, notes Barraud.