2006 Larmandier-Bernier BB Vieilles Vignes du Levant

The Larmandier-Bernier 2006 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Vieille Vigne de Cramant – disgorged in late 2012 – is gorgeously scented with intimations of sea breeze and oyster liquor along with toasted rye, its palate richness consisting also of suggestions of oyster and clam liquor that make for a saliva-tugging savor, while hints of stony and crystalline elements engage in a delightfully dynamic and protracted counterpoint with fresh lemon-drizzled apple and pear. This beauty ought to merit attention for at least 4-5 more years. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier farm 40 hectares morsellated into an even larger number of parcels in Vertus and villages on either side, as well as in the grand cru quartet of Avize, Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. Among their notable innovations is the use of helicopter to deliver biodynamic sprays to such a large surface on the appointed “root days.” The precision, refinement, and nuance achieved in their wines are exemplary. A very small share of foudre and barrel is employed for the non-vintage “Latitude” and “Longitude” bottlings simply so as to have a means of “seasoning” that wood before it gets transferred to the vintage program, where tanks are in the minority. The Larmandiers believe in minimal settling of juice after pressing, and all of their wines get close to, if not longer than, one year of elevage before going to bottle for the secondary fermentation, though after that, the time until disgorgement and (six months later) release varies widely according to cuvee. Normally, each non-vintage wine includes reserve contingents from the two previous vintages. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

(LCT 60311): Pale yellow. Smoky pear and peach pit on the nose, with subtle jasmine, iodine and honey qualities adding complexity. Smooth and fleshy on the palate, but with a penetrating quality and intense minerality to the orchard fruit and citrus pith flavors. Firm, focused and pure on the impressively long finish, which shows very good clarity and stony cut. Offers a superb blend of richness and vivacity.

(this Champagne received a very low dosage of two grams per liter): Light yellow-gold. Pungent, mineral-accented aromas of dried pear, nectarine, jasmine and ginger, with a subtle herbal note in the background. Fleshy and chewy in texture but nervy as well, with impressive energy to its sappy orchard and citrus fruit flavors. A refreshingly bitter note of lemon pith adds bite and cut to the long, focused finish. I find this style of Champagne fascinating.