2011 Château des Rontets Pouilly-Fuissé Les Birbettes

The 2011 Pouilly-Fuisse Les Birbettes, whose name derives from Italian slang for a “rascal,” comes from the oldest vines in the clos, a majority planted after phylloxera in the 1920s and the remainder just after World War II. It has a succinct bouquet with acacia and honeysuckle wafting temptingly from the glass. It is very pure and well-defined. The palate is nicely poised with a deceptive, understated entry that fans out beautifully on the back-palate with light apricot, honey, fresh pear and mineral notes. It is blessed with a convincingly harmonious, saline-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. Bellissimo! Chateau des Rontets is worth a visit not only for their excellent wines, but the spectacular vista from this, one of the highest vineyards in Macon at around 350 meters. Standing outside the winery you can feel the breeze funneling down the valley and when the weather is less clement, it can pose a problem in terms of vine damage. The estate dates back before the Revolution, when it was confiscated by the State. Indeed, this chateau is steeped in history, the interior perhaps a little “disheveled” but brimming over with character. The vines, cultivated on hard and well-drained limestone soils, have been farmed organically since 2005 with minimal spraying (though it was “invaded” by 713 naked men and women in 2009 for a photograph in aid of Greenpeace – I am sure there is a Maria Thun preparation to deal with that). Here one finds a very traditional, meticulous approach to winemaking, the results of which are there to be tasted in the wine glass. Importer: several importers including T Edward Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504 ; Joli Vin, Richmond, CA; tel. (415) 308-2460; Becky Wasserman Selection and The Wine Society (UK)