2017 Morey St Denis Monts Luisants Blanc

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Monts Luisants Blanc was one of the few vineyards affected by hail this year, Dujac losing around 50% of the crop, though it mostly damaged the canopy rather than the bunches. This has an attractive honeysuckle and orange blossom bouquet, though perhaps it is not quite as penetrating as the 2016. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a fine bead of acidity, a significant step up from the Village Cru this year, and a light saline influence and hints of orange peel on the finish. Excellent.

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Monts Luisants Blanc reveals aromas of citrus oil, beeswax and wet stones, followed by a tangy, incisive palate that's tensile, chalky and acid-driven, with the bright, electric quality that's so typical of this bottling. It's the most extreme white in the Dujac cellar but also my favorite.

Above Clos de la Roche. East-facing and steep so heats up early in the day but goes into the shadow of the trees in the afternoon so you get ripeness but very high acid. Came in with a pH of 3. Post malo the pH is 3.1. Malos sometimes struggle. Barrel sample. Ripe and spicy pears on the nose. Rich fruit plus searing acidity – a real tightrope walker. Plus a balancing creamy lees richness. (JH)