2019 Chartogne-Taillet Hors-Série

The 2019 Champagne Blanc De Blancs Hors Serie Extra Brut comes from Avize, where the chalk is much softer, especially compared to that of Merfy in the north. In the glass, it boasts outstanding ripeness and structure, with notes of ripe citrus of orange and the spice of youthful oak framing the wine. Medium to full-bodied, it has the perception of volume without being weighted and boasts outstanding purity and concentration, with a seamless, balanced texture. It is going to be worth waiting for this vintage. There is a real power to this wine, with a silky underlying texture and a long finish, but it’s not austere. It has a more giving and approachable nature, with a finer and more rounded mousse, which lends a lightly creamy texture. Drink 2027-2050. Speaking with Alexandre Chartogne at his estate in Merfy, it quickly becomes apparent that his approach to wine is less about wine descriptors and flavor profiles and more philosophical. He believes that it is essential to understand that every place and every corner of Champagne are different, from the soil and subsoil to the culture and people, which differ from village to village and region to region. According to Alexandre, “The winemaker is not responsible; a great terroir will make great wine.”

Chartogne’s 2019 Blanc de Blancs Hors Série hails from several parcels in Avize, predominantly situated on the lower slopes where the topsoil is thinnest—ranging from a mere 20 centimeters to one meter in some plots. These southeast-facing vineyards benefit from generous sun exposure, with soils composed of sand, clay and silt layered over a chalky bedrock. In the cellar, the wine is matured in a combination of 228- and 600-liter oak barrels. Already expressive—shaped by a sunny vintage in a rich terroir—it unfurls in the glass with a bouquet of honeysuckle, pear, white peach and lemon oil. On the palate, it is full-bodied and concentrated yet vividly vibrant, energized by mouthwatering acidity that lends both balance and tension. Combining muscularity with structural finesse, it was disgorged in June 2024 with a dosage of just one gram per liter. This wine promises to evolve gracefully over time.

The 2019 Extra-Brut Hors Série marries textural richness and finesse. The 2019 was aged on cork, which adds layers of dimension in both flavor and textural profiles. Light tropical notes and a kiss of French oak complement a core of youthful Avize citrus fruit. This racy, polished Champagne is so expressive and inviting. Dosage is 1 gram per liter. Disgorged: June 2024.