2017 Larmandier-Bernier Non Dose Terre de Vertus

Base wine was fermented in oak. Aged for six years on lees. Sweet pastries and cinnamon rolls on the nose, followed by a palate that is wonderfully vinous, with definite oak spice, complex fruit flavours of mixed peel, white peach and orange citrus. Moderately long, but that will develop further with age. (RH)

The 2017 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Terre de Vertus, which derives from two east-facing plots within the same lieu-dit in Les Barillers, located mid-slope, imparts a very mineral, almost crystalline character. A vineyard that rarely produces powerful wines, even in the context of 2017, it has retained its personality, though it’s a little more generous and slightly less focused than the 2016 rendition. Unfurling from the glass with aromas of lemon peel, honeysuckle and oyster shell, it is medium-bodied, racy and saline-tinged and can be approached before the last year’s release. It was disgorged in May 2023.

The 2017 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Terre de Vertus 1er Cru is creamy, open-knit and quite seductive. Readers will find a generous, sensual Champagne with plenty of early appeal. Vinification and aging in oak softens the contours. Dried pear, crushed flowers, mint and chamomile build beautifully over time. This is a fine effort in a very challenging year. No dosage. Disgorged: May 2023.