2019 Chartogne-Taillet Chemin de Reims Extra Brut
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Tasting notes
A bright straw/yellow hue, the 2019 Champagne Blanc De Blancs Chemin De Reims Extra Brut is vertical and bright, with notable salinity, and is less about its organic fruit profile and leans more into its mineral texture. In the glass, it offers notes of pithy white grapefruit, white peach, lemon balm, delicate toast, and fresh bread. Medium-bodied, the mousse is lively and further focuses the wine, with pixelated angular tension and bright acidity. Drink 2027-2050. Speaking with Alexandre Chartogne at his estate in Merfy, it quickly becomes apparent that his approach to wine is less about wine descriptors and flavor profiles and more philosophical. He believes that it is essential to understand that every place and every corner of Champagne are different, from the soil and subsoil to the culture and people, which differ from village to village and region to region. According to Alexandre, “The winemaker is not responsible; a great terroir will make great wine.”
Critic scores
Average Score
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Audrey Frick, jebdunnuck.com
More reviews and scores
Chartogne-Taillet’s 2019 Blanc de Blancs Chemin de Reims, disgorged in May 2024 with a dosage of four grams per liter, is showing magnificently. It unfurls from the glass with an expressive bouquet of nashi pear, orange zest and beeswax, mingling with white flowers and anise. The fruit is sourced from a south-facing, single-vineyard parcel planted between 1986 and 2005, distinguished by its sandy, iron-rich soils. Vinification takes place in 228-liter barrels—primarily from Taransaud and Seguin Moreau—most of which are two to three years old, with 10% new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium- to full-bodied and strikingly multifaceted—brimming with concentration yet retaining remarkable tension. A pristine core of fruit is complemented by ripe but vibrant acidity and a long, chalk-inflected finish. Both the 2019 and 2020 renditions are exceptional, but the 2019 arguably delivers even greater depth and nuance today.
The 2019 Extra-Brut Chemin de Reims is a bundle of focus and tension. I would prefer to cellar it for a few years, as it is quite tense. Chalk, crushed rocks, salt, white pepper, and mint all race across the palate. This chiseled Blanc de Blancs is terrific, a wine of tremendous substance and palate presence. This serious, contemplative Champagne is lights-out. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 2024.