2013 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reserve

55% Grenache, 45% Mourvèdre, aged 60 years. Sandy soil on the lieux-dits La Guigasse et Pignan. 19 hl/ha. In demi-muids (600 litres) for 15 months. There’s an immediate sign of the Mourvèdre here in its meaty/savoury character but there’s also a very slight and attractive herbal quality on the nose. Bigger overall than their other Châteauneufs but the tannins still show real finesse and it is not massive despite the higher alcohol. Firm and just a little chewy, but fresh too. (JH)

The cream of the lineup and one of the stars of the vintage is the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve le Clos du Caillou. Incorporating more Mourvèdre than normal (a blend of 55% Grenache and 45% Mourvèdre), this smokin’ southern Rhône sports a deep ruby/purple color to go with notes of blackcurrants, white pepper, orange liqueur and graphite. Big, full-bodied, supple and elegant, it’s certainly not as massive as some of the greats from this estate (2001, 2005, 2007 or 2010), but hats off to the team for producing a wine of this quality in a difficult vintage.

Opaque ruby. Intense red berry liqueur and spicecake aromas are complemented by hints of smoky minerals and incense. Fresh and precise in the mouth, offering palate-staining red fruit compote flavors, zesty minerality and a jolt of candied lavender. Silky tannins come up slowly and add shape to the long, floral finish. Extremely suave wine, and sure to be delicious soon after release.