2018 Beaune Clos de Mouches

For background see tasting note on the white version . Both these 2018 Clos des Mouches are labelled Joseph Drouhin rather than Domaine Joseph Drouhin because some of the grapes come from a small plot at the top of the vineyard owned by another family with whom Drouhin have been working for half a century. The Drouhins grow these grapes organically, as they do their own. Bright, mid garnet with a pale rim. A slightly raw note on the nose; this is much less evolved than the white version. There is sweet fruit on the palate – almost glacé-cherry notes – but the oak is still a little evident. It should all settle down into a wine delivering pleasure, a little sweeter than many. A hint of cherry cough sweets. Nicely ripe tannins. A little more obviously ripe than many Drouhin reds. I shall try it this evening with roast duck and expect it to partner it well. (It did.) (JR)

One of the portfolio's real successes, as is so often the case, is the 2018 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Domaine). Wafting from the glass with inviting aromas of ripe cherries, raspberries and violets mingled with subtle hints of espresso roast and chocolate, it's medium to full-bodied, lavish and fleshy, with a voluptuous core of fruit that's framed by velvety tannins and succulent acids. An undeniably rich, ripe rendition of this emblematic cuvée, it will be best served a touch closer to cellar temperature than usual; if there's a criticism, it's that it's a little heady.

A perfumed and spicy wine with ripe strawberries, smoke and chocolate. Full, very savory and intense. Long aftertaste with lots of perfume. Fine, creamy texture. Really spicy at the finish. Drink after 2022 and onwards.