2017 Pouilly Fuisse Clos des Quarts
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Tasting notes
The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Quarts opens in the glass with a promising bouquet of delicately buttered orchard fruit, honeycomb and blanched almonds that's discretely framed by a deft touch of new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and muscular, with a tight-knit, concentrated profile and tangy acidity that's not entirely integrated into the wine's structural profile at the time of writing. The raw materials are promising, but a little patience will be required.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Quarts, co-owned by Olivier Merlin and Dominique Lafon, does not include the oldest vines in this particular vintage. Since these were planted in 1917, this plot was bottled separately in magnums to celebrate its centenary. It has a very classy bouquet, one that is beautifully defined with orange pith, apricot, lime flower and jasmine aromas that all gain intensity with aeration. The quality terroir comes through, even without those old vines. The palate is fresh and citrus-driven on the entry, bright and vivid with notes of orange rind, pine kernels, hints of mango and spice. This feels very harmonious and focused, demonstrating impressive depth on the flinty finish. This is a very impressive Pouilly-Fuissé from one of its most historic and now rejuvenated vineyards. Tasted at Field, Morris & Verdin’s annual tasting in London.
Very dense and finely etched. Really rather sweet, almost soft! I think I personally prefer the cut and thrust of Olivier Merlin’s Sur La Roche. (JR)