2016 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot

(from Les Fairendes and La Cardeuse; the Moreaus produced 50% of a normal crop here): Inviting aromas of pineapple, pear and white peach lifted by flowers and herbs. Larger-scaled and more obviously structured than the Maltroie (and quite typical of Morgeot), with its rich, ripe orchard and citrus fruit flavors still a bit youthfully imploded. An element of lemon zest keeps the middle palate fresh. The long, rising aftertaste is at once powerful and classically dry. Lay this one down.

The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots has a more expressive bouquet than the Maltroie, with scents of citrus peel, apple blossom, cold flint and, later, orange pith. I like the energy conveyed by the aromatics. The palate is well balanced with a crisp entry. This builds quickly in the mouth, quite spicy and lively, not persistent like previous vintages but still precise and full of character.