1995 Boerl & Kroff

The first wine ever produced under the Boërl & Kroff label was the 1995 Brut, and it is still an immensely youthful, concentrated wine that I believe could withstand comparison with many of this overlooked vintage's finest efforts. Wafting from the glass with aromas of iodine, warm bread, beeswax, English walnuts, dried orange peel and dried white flowers, it's full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with considerable chalky structure, lively acids and a long, vinous finish. While this displays some gently oxidative elements, that only brings additional complexity, and the 1995 still has the better part of two decade's longevity ahead of it.