2015 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot

(Moreau's vines are in Les Fairendes and La Cardeuse, the latter lieu-dit on the Santenay side of the cru, which Alexandre describes as a "masculine, powerful terroir "): Light-medium yellow. An aroma of very ripe pear is complicated by wild herbs and a touch of menthol. Compact on entry, then a densely packed, sweet fruit bomb in the middle palate, with orchard fruit and soft citrus flavors given punch by a firm spine. Surprisingly fresh and gripping through the finish. This should age well. A very successful Morgeot with structure and no heaviness. Moreau noted that he picked this fruit early in order not to emphasize the site's power.

Pale, bright lemon-yellow. Aromas of orange zest and lemon oil show none of the honeyed side of 2015. Silky, sweet and concentrated; nothing hard or out of place here. Not yet complex but nicely framed by lemony acidity. This shapely wine finishes with a touch of phenolic bitterness.

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot is a stunning success, offering up a deep and already complex bouquet of pear, pastry cream, wheat toast, iodine, lemon oil and hazelnut. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, authoritative and multidimensional, with wonderful depth and dimension and considerable extract, underpinned by succulent acids, its finish long and mineral. This is an imposing Morgeot that captures the power while avoiding the corpulence of which this climat is capable. Apr 2018, www.robertparker.com