2008 Columella

(at a yield of 26 hectoliters per hectare, this was the first vintage that exceeded 22, according to Sadie): Bright medium red. Captivating high-pitched nose combines crushed red cherry and raspberry, rose petal and violet; real Burgundian perfume here. Then tight, bright and sharply delineated, offering terrific cut and floral lift to its pungent red fruit and orange zest flavors. Finishes with outstanding subtle length. This is totally different in style from all the vintages before it; following his experience in 2007, Sadie picked this vintage earlier as well. This wonderfully pure wine will merit an even higher score if it deepens with more bottle age. I love this style.

The 2008 Columella is a Shiraz based blend with a little Mourvedre grown on mainly granite soils and aged for two years in barrels. It has a very distinct bouquet with vibrant, well defined, wild dark berried fruit intermingling with subtle aromas of dark plum, blackberry leaf and a touch of cassis all with great precision. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but sturdy tannins, supremely well balanced with superb acidity and expression, finishing with great mineralite on the finish that has slight blur of alcohol. Drink 2013-2020. Only the wineries of great winemakers are worth vandalizing. This is exactly what happened to Eben Sadie in Priorat recently. Jealous neighbours? Probably. Rather, they should have sat down with him and learnt how to make world-class wine. Eben is the outspoken, peripatetic, terroir-obsessed winemaker who has been instrumental in putting Swartland on the map. He produces a small portfolio of comparatively expensive, but highly coveted wines based on Rhone varieties sourced from his seemingly never-ending search for pockets of old bush vine and unique terroirs. These are cerebral wines built to age. My only criticism is that older vintages have been rather brawny and alcoholic, so I was pleased to hear courtesy of part-time vineyard manager, Brian MacRobert, that Eben is seeking to reduce alcohol in the future. Eben was actually in London when I visited and it was Brian who took me through the wines as well as barrel selections for the 2010 vintage. He also produces his own label “Tobias,” which was impressive, so keep an eye out for his name in the future. Importer: A&B Imports, 660 South Lucile Street, Seattle, WA 98108-2640, United States. Tel 206-332-0320.

Deep blood crimson. Very perfumed and lifted, forest berries and night flowers and garrigue-scented. Very taut and tight on the palate, the most tailored wine of all – Saville Row tannins with exquisitely stitched seams, achingly elegant. A long mineral backbone, yet fleshy red currant and cherry fruit, tangy and pert with a gently earthy undertow. There is a real prancing and life to this wine, a new precision and deftness. Intense and incredibly beautiful. (TC)