2008 Chablis Vaudevey

Lime and ripe apricot in the nose of the Laroche 2008 Chablis Vaudevey suggest Riesling, as does the sense of interplay among chalky, fusil, and fruit notes that informs its silken-textured palate. The combination of density and textural allure with vivacity and refreshment here is well executed; and piquant apricot kernel, a bite of white pepper, as well as pungently tart, sizzling citrus rind extend a stimulating finish. While a delight now, this should keep well for at least 4-6 years. The Languedoc negociant and multiple estate-owner Jean Jean has bought-out Michel Laroche’s domaine, but for now at least, Laroche and winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye remain, and the quality and style of their 2008s is entirely consistent with that of other recent vintages. Incidentally, Laroche – a pioneer in France with utilizing screwcap closures – has switched to a saranex liner that de la Bourdonnaye says is designed to and does mitigate tendencies toward reduction that he and his team (and occasionally I) have noted in some past cuvees. Given the Sauvignon-like aspects of many of the 2008s here, I had wondered (prior to learning of this closure change) about continued hints of reduction in a couple of instances here as well. The lees were stirred actively to promote textural richness, which indeed most of these wines impressively exhibit, and there was some light chaptalization of musts that for the most part came in closer to 12% than to 13% potential alcohol. Importer: Canon Wines, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 394-6454