2009 Palladius

Rich, appley. Good fruit on the mid palate. Exciting dense and long. Toasted nuts and apples on the finish. (JR)

Fermented in a combination of 500-liter barrels, foudres and cement, the 2009 Palladius is a blend of (deep breath) old Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Verdelho, Clairette and Palomino aged for two years in barrel. It has a crystalline bouquet with scents of dried honey, beeswax, hazelnut, broom and a faint touch of pinecone. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity and precision; notes of walnut, honeysuckle, orange zest and a little spice. It displays impressive persistence in the mouth and you find yourself contemplating this wine long after you have swallowed it, each sip slightly different to the last. Sublime. Drink now-2020. Only the wineries of great winemakers are worth vandalizing. This is exactly what happened to Eben Sadie in Priorat recently. Jealous neighbours? Probably. Rather, they should have sat down with him and learnt how to make world-class wine. Eben is the outspoken, peripatetic, terroir-obsessed winemaker who has been instrumental in putting Swartland on the map. He produces a small portfolio of comparatively expensive, but highly coveted wines based on Rhone varieties sourced from his seemingly never-ending search for pockets of old bush vine and unique terroirs. These are cerebral wines built to age. My only criticism is that older vintages have been rather brawny and alcoholic, so I was pleased to hear courtesy of part-time vineyard manager, Brian MacRobert, that Eben is seeking to reduce alcohol in the future. Eben was actually in London when I visited and it was Brian who took me through the wines as well as barrel selections for the 2010 vintage. He also produces his own label “Tobias,” which was impressive, so keep an eye out for his name in the future. Importer: A&B Imports, 660 South Lucile Street, Seattle, WA 98108-2640, United States. Tel 206-332-0320.

(a white blend based on chenin blanc): Bright yellow-green. Brilliant aromas of lime, white peach, nectarine, flowers, green almond and pungent stony minerality. Rich but firm, with a tight, sappy core of white peach, minerals, honey and spices. Wonderfully intense and consistent from start to vibrant, palate-staining finish. With 24 hours in the recorked bottle, the wine showed a richer and more honeyed texture without loss of vibrancy. This should be even more complex in a year or so.