1981 Rioja Gran Reserva 890

This winery's top of the line offerings are the Gran Reservas. The 1981 Gran Reserva 890 boasts a knock-out nose of smoke, charcoal, vanillin, black fruits, and cigar smoke. The wine's terrific fruit seemingly belies the relatively advanced medium ruby color with significant amber at the edge. There is tannin in the background, but the wine is broad and expansive, with considerable sweet fruit, glycerin, and length. 1981 was considered one of the great vintages for Rioja, and this wine is at its peak of maturity, although it will last for another 15-20 years. This is an exceptional example of an old school Spanish Rioja that was aged in different-sized oak vessels, and not released until it had reached full maturity. If readers think the price is high, consider the fact that this bodegas has aged the wine for the consumer, rather than asking you to buy it as a "future" in 1982 and hold it for 15 years before drinking it. The traditionally made Spanish wines from this bodega are successful. However, readers looking for more internationally-styled Spanish reds that have saturated ruby/purple colors, and grapy personalities are advised that this bodega emphasizes the more mature, aged character of Spanish Rioja, with mature garnet colors with rust at the edge, and fragrant, intense, evolved aromatic profiles. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620