2005 Vina Arana Reserva

Despite three years in this bodega's particularly well-maintained barrels, this wine is a remarkable dark crimson. Intense, almost cheesy nose. Rich and concentrated with a very firm Tempranillo expression and some smooth, chocolatey texture. Yet it is lively and fresh on the finish. This is for those who may want to cellar the wine. A bit animal. Very beautifully balanced. But this is more animal than fruit. (JR)

Bright ruby. Sexy, oak-spiced red fruit and floral pastille aromas are complemented by deeper-pitched notes of espresso and licorice. Juicy, penetrating and spicy on the palate, offering vibrant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a building vanilla nuance. Supple tannins give shape to the finish, which features lively red fruit and spicecake flavors. This suave wine is delicious now but balanced to age.

The 2005 Vina Arana Reserva has a fresh bouquet of orange blossom, quince, violets and dark cherries. The palate is succulent on the entry with vivacious maraschino cherry, red currant and blood orange. It displays a very fine build and a silky smooth texture that segues to a poised, mint-tinged, bright and animated finish. Drink now-2020. La Rioja Alta formed part of my “classic Rioja” day that included Lopez de Heredia and Muga, the triumvirate of wineries in Haro all but a minute’s stroll from each other (which would have been fine, but for the spontaneous downpours). I have admired their wines for many years, Rioja that speaks so eloquently and with such clarity of their place. La Rioja Alta was founded in the town of Haro in 1890. They own 450 hectares of vineyard from which their entire portfolio is sourced, predominantly Tempranillo complemented by Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha. Another tenet is their use of American rather than French oak. The wood is cured for two years outdoors before being shaped and hammered into barrels at their own cooperage. Although the estate owns vines in Ribera del Duero and Rias Baixas (to be covered in later reports) I focused upon recent releases from their two Rioja lines: Torre de Ona and of course, La Rioja Alta itself. Quite simply, these are some of the finest Riojas that can grace your cellar: complex, refined, classic but without compromising fruit intensity and to reiterate: wines that speak about where they come from. Importer: various importers in the US, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Southern Wine & Spirits, www.southernwine.com, and The Country Vintner, Oilville, VA; tel. (800) 365-9463