2012 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc
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Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Medium yellow. Very sexy scents of ripe stone fruits, minerals, clove and menthol, plus a suggestion of redcurrant and a Batard-like toasty nuance. Large-scaled, plush and powerful but also quite fine-grained, with salty minerality and a repeating menthol element carrying through to a palate-staining finish. There's lovely supporting acidity here for such a rich, ripe wine. A touch of sweetness gives this complex, chewy premier cru some early appeal but there's much more to come here. (I should note that my first bottle showed a deeper yellow color. It was sweet and silky but displayed more evolved notes of ripe apricot, marzipan and white chocolate, as well as a balsamic element, almost certainly due to a bad cork or cork seal. Véronique Drouhin admitted that her family had some cork problems in 2012.) (11 h/h; 3.3 pH; 3.95 g/l acidity)
(just 21 barrels were produced in 2012, the equivalent of a mere 6 hectoliters per hectare; but production was even lower in 2013, at 10 to 12 barrels): Captivating soil-driven aromas of iodiney minerality, white pepper, smoke and stones. Wonderfully intense and powerful, showing a texture of liquid silk to its lemon and crushed stone flavors. Boasts an uncanny blend of precision and richness and outstanding inner-mouth tension. This almost freakishly concentrated wine appears to have the balance for a long and eventful evolution in bottle and may ultimately merit an even higher rating.
About the producer

Joseph Drouhin is one of the largest and most famous producers in Burgundy, making both domaine and négociant wines. It remains family-owned and run, now in the hands of the fourth generation.