2021 Brunello di Montalcino
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Tasting notes
Poured at a retrospective tasting going back to 1999 held at Gramercy Tavern in NYC. ‘A lively vintage, marked by weather extremes – from spring frosts to intense summer heat, followed by a wetter-than-usual end of August that allowed the grapes to reach full ripeness without water or heat stress. Harvest began on September 10 and continued until October 4, following the classic timeline for our Sangiovese. 2021 yielded wines of structure and depth, with firm yet refined tannins supported by vibrant acidity.’ Winemaker Leonardo Berti adds that yields were down 15% due to frost, when temperatures hit -6 °C and hurt the vines in the lower elevations. Spontaneously fermented in tronconic oak vats, aged 36 months. pH 3.51 This is huge in every way, from the open, spicy, giving scents to the ferrous tannins and tongue-wagging acidity. It’s so wrapped up in its structure it’s hard to identify any fruit; it tastes more of earth, roses and thorns. Dark, firm and elegant; just needs 20 years. (TQT)
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
Displaying a youthful ruby red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is pure and focused on the nose, with cranberries, Bing cherries, fresh roses, blood orange, and stony earth. The palate is medium-bodied and compact, with well-defined tannins, brisk acidity, and a long finish framed by salty accents. It’s a standout wine that will require patience, yet it has all the structure to drink at its best over the next two to three decades. Bottled in May 2025. Drink 2026-2057. Founded by Piero Palmucci in 1989, Poggio di Sotto in Castelnuovo dell’Abate now has 20 hectares under vine. The vineyards are between 200 and 450 meters in elevation, with predominantly southwest exposure. The estate has been under the management of Colle Massari Wine Estates, led by winemaker Luca Marrone, since 2011. Farming and viticulture are entirely organic across the Colle Massari Wine Estates, which include Gratamacco, and as of the 2016 vintage, San Giorgio, also in Montalcino. Luca continues to maintain and uphold the philosophy of their late consultant Giulio Gambelli, who famously championed classic expressions of Sangiovese with translucency and high complexity. Only large 70-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks are utilized for slow fermentations as well as aging, without temperature control, and with long maceration times for slow and low extraction.
Defined by a noble mineral precision that remains subtly in the background, the Poggio di Sotto 2021 Brunello di Montalcino delivers beautiful clarity to the bouquet and freshness to the palate. Within that framework, the wine reveals layers of cassis, red rose and grilled rosemary, offering impressive complexity inside a full-bodied but elegantly streamlined structure marked by vibrancy and energy. The wine is produced using the estate’s long-standing approach of fermentation and aging in Slavonian oak and cement, a formula that preserves finesse and site expression. Production totals approximately 35,000 bottles plus larger formats, and while the price is undeniably high, the quality fully supports the ambition.
Perfumed, with aromas of dried flowers, red fruit, lavender and dried herbs that are expressive and enveloping. Medium-bodied, full of tension and precision, showing focused, delineated fruit framed by nervy, fine-grained yet firm tannins and vibrant, linear acidity. Combines transparency and structure. Crunchy, incisive and beautifully defined, with exceptional length and detail. Drink now with aeration or cellar for a couple of years. Drink or hold.
About the producer
There are few names in Brunello di Montalcino that rank higher than Poggio di Sotto. The estate's obsession with clonal quality, combined with its incredibly elegant winemaking style has garnered a loyal fanbase.