2017 Dom Perignon

Of the two releases—the 2017 and the 2018—the 2017 Dom Pérignon is the deeper and more structurally endowed wine, unfurling from the glass with a complex bouquet of orange peel, dried apricot and burnt buttered toast, mingling with nuances of dried flowers, toasted hazelnut and cacao bean, all strongly singed with the house’s signature smoky reduction. On the palate, it is full-bodied and concentrated, with a rich core of fruit. Its darker, open-knit profile is animated by a pillowy mousse, vibrant acidity and attractively bitter, structuring phenolics that assert themselves on a long, resonant finish.

ense and layered with dried apples and pears as well as candied lemons, grilled lemons and lemon meringue. It's full-bodied, rich, tangy and flavorful. March 2026 release. Tiny production. Smallest ever for Dom Pérignon. A blend of 61% chardonnay and 39% pinot noir. Dosage 4.5 g/L. Drink now.

Full bottle 1,646 g. Richard Geoffroy's last vintage, to be released commercially at the beginning of 2026. He controversially decided that the 2016 base wines weren't concentrated enough so they skipped that year and more or less had to make a 2017, from a notoriously difficult growing season when many a grape was ruined by galloping acetic acid infection. One of the ripest vintages ever and, until storms on 15 August, everyone was touting it as the best vintage ever. Chardonnays were even riper than in 2003 but finding good Pinot Noir in the warm, wet conditions of late August and early September was a real challenge. This blend is 62% Chardonnay, 38% Pinot Noir and in terms of quantity is the smallest Dom P release ever, only three or four months' sales-worth. Even smaller than 2005. Described in-house as a 'radical' vintage, a bit like 2003 ie one that was not widely made. Exceedingly rich nose with more crème pâtissière than lemon in this vintage – a less-citrus Dom than usual. Seems quite sweet and a little simpler and lighter than the 2018. And not as long. But perhaps it's suffering by comparison with the sheer intensity and obvious ripeness of 2018 tasted alongside. May even be a slow burner. There's a touch of bitterness at the end. (JR)