NV Henri Giraud Perpetual Reserve 90-21

I have followed the Giraud wines for a long while, and every wine, many of which have featured on matthewjukes.com and indeed in Finest Fifty, has been bombastic, theatrical, and ‘all the fun of the fair’. They are rich, structured, colourful and impactful, and you must be in the mood for this style of Ultra-CGI action on the palate. It’s important to state that these wines are foodie, deeply resonant, and somewhat shocking, given that my all-time favourite style of sparkling wine is the lean, mean, epée rather than the Gatling gun! However, there are always exceptions and 21-90, drawn from a perpetual reserve of elite Pinot Noir, spiked with a nervy dose of Chardonnay, is one such wine. I was amazed by the freshness here, and while this is still a true Giraud creation with scale and amplitude, it is ridiculously long, refined, and, critically, refreshing. Perhaps this is a sign of things to come, or maybe it is simply an anomaly. Either way, if you are a Giraud fan, you will be hypnotised by this wine. If you are not, you must also step up to the plate, because I can guarantee it will change your mind. Wow. What a wine, and what an experience. This was one of the most exciting and unexpected wines of the year.

A true perpetual cuvée, drawn from two tanks that nourish both Esprit Nature and MV, Giraud’s NV PR 90-20 was disgorged in May 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter. Comprising 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, it reveals delicately high-toned aromas of golden apple and nutty tones, mingling with spice and beeswax. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, rich and vinous, with a fleshy fruit core supported by vibrant acidity, culminating in a long, saline finish. This perpetual reserve spans vintages from 1990 to 2020—hence its name.

Pie crust, cedar, nutmeg, dried apples and pineapple as well as dried flowers follow through to a full body with a layered mouthfeel. Lots of tea-leaf, dried-fruit and apple-pie flavors yet tight and focused. Slightly spicy finish. 100% perpetual reserve. Pinot noir with a touch of chardonnay. Dosage 5 g/L. Disgorged October 2024. Drink or hold.