2004 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Brut

The dominantly tart apple character of Clicquot’s 2004 Brut makes for a piquant and invigorating if somewhat raw overall impression, incorporating as well overt yeastiness and hints of almond, apple pip, and lemon rind. Insofar as there are impressions here that I would deem “mineral,” these are a faintly sweaty and slightly metallic note in the finish, which manage to fit the wine’s brash personality. I don’t fancy this gaining from bottle age, though I readily confess my lack of experience with older representatives. Imported by Moet Hennessy, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200