2013 Prager Grüner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd
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Tasting notes
The 2013 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachstum Bodenstein is concentrated, deep and intense yet pure on the coolish fresh and flinty nose, with its lemon rind and some greenish notes on the complex bouquet that will open much more with aeration and show more apricot aromas. On the palate, this is an elegant, crystalline and seamlessly textured, very intense and aromatic, dense and juicy Veltliner with a beautifully fresh and elegant finish that displays lemon flavors and reveals a tight mineral structure and remarkable aging potential. Tasted in Weissenkirchen/Wachau in September 2019.
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Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
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Head-turningly high-toned floral and herbal essences and extract of almond and pistachio rise from the glass, then persist strikingly as billowing, expansive inner-mouth perfume. Luscious white peach and Crenshaw melon assert themselves on a creamy, faintly oily palate, yet one enlivened by juicy, fresh lime and grapefruit. Whether or not this is connected with sheer measurable dry extract, the sense of minerality here in the form of sweetly saline, iodine-tinged and utterly mouthwatering reduction of shrimp, crab and lobster shells is extraordinary. It’s amazing to recall that this bottling still comes from young vines (specifically, their seventh crop), a testimony not only to the potential of this sector of Achleiten and to Toni Bodenstein’s diligence and vision, but also to the evident wisdom of his having planted this site with 120 different clones and selections.