2010 Lillian Syrah Santa Barbara

(made from fruit grown in the White Hawk, Stolpman and Bien Nacido vineyards): Inky purple. Assertive aromas of black and blue fruits, spicecake, olive and smoky minerals. Picks up a sexy floral nuance with air, which carries onto the palate, joining vibrant boysenberry and blackcurrant flavors. The spicy quality comes back strong on the finish, which clings with superb focus and persistence. I get no trace of heat here despite the fact that the wine is carrying 15.3% alcohol, but I've come to expect that from Maggie Harrison's wines. Speaking of which, I had the chance to revisit the outstanding 2009 Lillian syrah this fall and while its flamboyant fruit is still on full display its tannins are making their presence felt more than at this time last year. The wine is delicious after a few hours of decanting but my inclination would be to keep it buried in the cellar for at least another five years.