2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein

The 2006 Riesling Heiligenstein resembles this year’s Gaisberg in its sheer concentration of phenolics and mineral suggestions. But here we have an otherwise very different personality. The mineral dimension is lip-smacking in its alkaline, briny intensity; the fruit is ripe peach, close to the pit, laced with tangy, zesty tangerine; a wealth of floral and herbal nuance signals the site. This is more enticing and multi-dimensional than the youthful Gaisberg, and finishes with an impressively palate-coating spread of flavor. Michael Moosbrugger harvested relatively late, into mid-November, but the resulting richness was not marred by alcohol (even though the levels are frequently high), a circumstance he attributes precisely to having waited for really full flavor ripeness, and been able to pick largely botrytis free. With the exception of his back-to-the-future “Tradition” cuvees, Moosbrugger bottled his 2006 whites relatively early. One has the sense that Moosbrugger’s Tradition cuvees – picked with the intent of fermenting in a manner that prevailed a half century and more ago and given a year or more in cask – often need time to get themselves together after bottling (or perhaps even longer in cask?). “I won’t decide for ten years,” says Moosbrugger, when asked whether he intends to continue or expand his use of methode ancienne. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300