1994 Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
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Showing surprising richness, the 1994 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reserve is a rock-solid Pegau that has classic and mature aromas and flavors, medium-bodied weight, and an impressive finish. I haven’t had a massive amount of ‘94s, but certainly, this is up there with the best I’ve had. Like the ’97 and ’96 though, I’d drink it sooner rather than later. Created in 1987 (although there were some earlier bottling released) Domaine du Pegau is run today by the father/daughter team of Paul and Laurence Feraud. When setting up this retrospective, I was shocked when Laurence Feraud told me she had never done a vertical tasting like this. While I know they drink their older cuvees often, I think the idea of opening so many wines for one tasting could be seen as wasteful, and in reality, it is. However, it’s also incredibly educational, and as Laurence commented, shows the story of the domaine. I was thrilled to take part in this tasting, which also included Laurence’s parents, Paul and Odette. Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400
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Robert Parker
Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Advocate
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Pegau has hit the bull's eye in both 1994 and 1995. The 1994 Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the top wines of the vintage. It reveals a deep ruby/purple color, followed by an expressive nose of black-cherries, smoked meats, black olives, and Provencal herbs. Thick, rich, and full-bodied, as well as sweeter and softer than the more structured 1995, this is a huge wine for the vintage. Already accessible, it should last and evolve for 15-20 years. I reported last year that there was the possibility that a single vineyard cuvee would be made from a 5-acre parcel of vines planted in 1905 in La Crau. After giving this some thought, Paul and his daughter, Laurence Feraud, decided they would prefer to keep this component in their Cuvee Reservee rather than bottle it separately. Readers who like naturally made wines should also be aware that very little SO2 is utilized in the wines of Domaine du Pegau, and the vineyard is farmed organically. This wine was tasted between June 1 and June 16, 1996. Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (703) 347-3471 and J. et R. Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; tel. (517) 772-3695