2005 Jerome Chezeaux - Clos de Vougeot
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Tasting notes
A tiny parcel informs Chezeaux’s 2005 Clos Vougeot, which offers interesting aromas of lightly-cooked black cherry, game, and pungent wood smoke and high-toned herbs. A savory, meaty, palate full of fruit is nevertheless hostage (at least temporarily) to the wine’s substantial tannin. The finish , while impressively long, is rather somber and slightly drying, perhaps in part under the influence of recent bottling. Flirting with 14% alcohol, it also betrays a touch of heat. Jerome Chezeaux had just bottled (albeit without filtration) when I visited, so allowances should be made for the possibility that the wines were suffering from this. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne (84), 2005 Vosne-Romanee (85+?), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges (86+?), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains (?). Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Good bright red-ruby. Cool aromas of medicinal black cherry. Creamy and sweet if a bit rustic on entry, then broad in the middle palate, with good flesh and ripeness. Turns a bit dry toward the back, but the dusty tannins are nicely supported by the wine's middle-palate sweetness. The longest of these 2005s today. The vines here are more than 60 years old.
About the producer
This Gevrey-Chambertin property was founded in 1982 but the vines were leased to other producers. As of 2021, that’s all changed, with Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat’s Charles van Canneyt and his wife Anne-Sophie having purchased the property. This is undoubtedly an address to watch.