2005 Domaine Tardieu-Laurent Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (90% Grenache and equal parts Mourvedre and Syrah) comes primarily from the famed sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as La Crau. This is a beautiful wine that is more elegant than the regular Chateauneuf du Pape, with raspberry and kirsch liqueur notes, a deep ruby color, finesse, acidity, and ripe tannin. It seems to be a terroir-based statement of Chateauneuf du Pape that cuts a style midway between the traditionalists and the modernists. This wine will need several years of bottle age, and should drink nicely for 15 or more years. Introduced first in 2001, Michel Tardieu makes a traditional Chateauneuf du Pape from 100% Grenache and 100% stems. He believes the wine needs at least 5-7 years of bottle age and then is meant to last 25-30 years. Michel Tardieu, who has exceptional knowledge about some of the finest vineyards and grape sources in both the northern and southern Rhone, utilizes the consulting services of renowned oenologist Philippe Cambie. The southern cuvees in 2005 were all very strong. These wines are generally aged in small, new oak barrels but with the Grenache cuvees kept in less new oak. Certainly they can show some new oak early in their life, but experience has taught me that after 4-5 years they become well-integrated in the richer, riper years. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029 and William-Harrison Imports, Inc. Manassas, Virginia 20109 (tel) (703) 815-9463.

Ruby-red. Superripe, liqueur-like red fruit aromas complemented by a deep chocolate tone. Brighter in the mouth, taking on a fresh raspberry quality, with fine, silky tannins providing structural support. The finish is sweet but racy, with excellent persistence to the red berry flavors.

Grenache Blanc and Roussanne in an equal blend . Yellow glow. Very Roussanne scented yet with the weight of Grenache and dominated by the latter on the palate. Big and just held in check from being flabby though one can virtually see the belt round the paunch. Very interesting blend which is not yet married. Should get there but I don’t feel confident enough at this point to give it a higher mark. (JR)