NV Laherte Freres Champagne Les 7 Extra Brut

Sourced from a 0.5-hectare northeast-facing plot planted in 2003 in Chavot-Courcourt, the Extra-Brut NV Les 7 (2020 base) was disgorged in November 2023 with a dosage of 2.5 grams per liter. The wine incorporates 50% from a perpetual reserve established in 2005 and comprises a field blend—18% Chardonnay, 18% Pinot Meunier, 17% Pinot Blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 14% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Gris, and 8% Arbanne—pressed and vinified together. It opens with aromas of white flowers, ripe pear and pastry. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, bright and incisive, with a rather slim musculature, concluding with a long, precise finish.

As the name suggests, the NV Extra Brut Les 7 is a blend of the seven authorized grapes in Champagne; Pinot Noir, Meunier, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier, Fromenteau and Arbanne. Scents of lemon, grapefruit, chalk and white pepper abound in a finely-sculpted, nuanced Champagne endowed with real energy. White orchard fruit, slate and a host of mineral-infused nuances punctuate the super-expressive finish. One of the more understated wines in the range, the Les 7 delivers the goods, and then some. Readers who can find this deeply expressive, singular Champagne should not hesitate, as it is truly fabulous. The current release is based on 2013, with 40% juice from continuous solera blend that goes back to 2005, bottled with no dosage. Disgorged: December 2015.

Seriously unusual champagne blend: 10% Fromenteau , 8% Arbanne, 14% Pinot Noir, 18% Chardonnay, 17% Pinot Blanc, 18% Pinot Meunier and 15% Petit Meslier. 40% reserve wines, no malolactic and a dosage of just 4 g/l . The overall effect is extremely bracing! A fine, if slightly demanding aperitif. (JR)