2010 Domaine Durieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape Lucile Avril

I’m not sure the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Lucile Avril will eclipse the 2007, but it is a magnificent wine. The precise blend of 90% tank-aged Grenache, 6% Mourvedre and 4% Syrah (both aged in small oak barrels) includes 100% stems, and was bottled with no filtration. It shares several characteristics with the 2007, including a dense purple color and a flamboyant, exotic nose of jammy black fruits, incense, truffles and garrigue. Slightly more firmer structured than the 2007, the 2010 must tip the scales at over 15% alcohol given its level of glycerin and mouth-coating viscosity. This sensational effort still has some tannins to shed, but it is beautifully rich, pure and multidimensional. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 15-20 years. Vincent Durieu, who is now in complete charge at Domaine Durieu, has upgraded the quality of their traditional cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape, which is a blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Mourvedre, Syrah and Cinsault aged in cement. He has also added a fabulous wine called Lucile Avril, which is 90% Grenache and the rest Mourvedre and Syrah from 40- to 105-year-old vines. A third cuvee, which I find less exciting, is the l’Eperdu, which is 100% Grenache that comes from three separate sites in Chateauneuf du Pape, Cabrieres, Fargueirol and Cansaud. I can muster less enthusiasm for the light ruby-colored 2011 and 2010 l’Eperdu. A Jack Siler Selection, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 644-5210; various American importers, including Route des Vins Imports, LLC, Charleston, SC; tel. (843) 737-0301

Even better and a profound effort, as well as the finest example of this cuvee I’ve tasted, the 2010 Domaine Durieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Lucile Avril is an old vine blend of 90% Grenache and the balance a mix of Mourvedre and Syrah. Youthfully tight and restrained, it possesses brilliant purity and depth, with classic aromas of blackberry, wild herbs, garrigue, and pepper to go with a full-bodied, structured, and perfectly balance mouth feel. Taking time to open in the glass and showing considerable backend structure, it needs 4-5 years of bottle age, and has 15+ years of total longevity.

Cuvée named after Vincent and François Durieu's grandmother, made from vines planted in 1914. 80% Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre. All whole bunch, 'so the élevage was complicated'. Extremely dark blackish crimson. Very savoury – almost smells of meat extract. Lots of raciness on the palate. Polished and energetic. Like a breath of fresh air. (JR)