2005 Riesling Hollerin Smaragd

In lieu of the usual “Riesling Smaragd Von den Terrassen,” the Pichlers now offer a vineyard-designated 2005 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin. Hollerin was long the principle source for the “Terrassen” cuvee, and given long-term contracts on some of the best, granitic upper terraces of this site, it seemed deserving of a chance to perform solo. A smoky, spicy, honeyed aroma suggests the influence of botrytis, and the palate confirms this in its red currant jam, honey, spice, and smoky pungency. The long strong finish to this wine really draws no clear line between the pungent crushed stone and crushed pepper character specific to the site and that of botrytis. Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Federspiel Von den Terrassen ($29.00; 86). Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800