2012 Alzinger Riesling Hohereck Smaragd

The Alzinger 2012 Riesling Smaragd Hohereck leads with ester-rich, high-toned pit fruit distillates, almond extract, heliotrope, wisteria, and piquant peach kernel. Full and glossy, its luscious white peach and apple are nonetheless transparent to shimmering, interactive evocations of stone, ore and crystalline mineral matter as well as to green herbal essences and scintillating inner-mouth perfume of diverse flowers. Soothing yet stimulating (above all of saliva), this beauty finishes with terrific persistence. I’m struck in transcribing my tasting note by how much this has in common with its, admittedly more buoyant and vivacious, 2010 counterpart, considering how different they are analytically: a measure of sheer site influence, if you will. “Really, when you compare the basic outlines of the growing season,” suggests the younger Leo Alzinger, “it wasn’t that different in outline from 2011. Alcohol levels are comparable, but the 2012s – though analytically not significantly higher in acidity – act livelier. In Loiben, we managed to get just enough rain when it was needed to keep the vines working, and temperatures were a bit cooler at harvest than in 2011.” He was not able to offer an explanation as to why, in contrast with so many others of this vintage, his Rieslings seemed – at least on the occasion of my tasting – to outclass his (to be sure, excellent) Gruner Veltliners; indeed, he pointed out that his Rieslings are, on the whole, planted in thinner soils that, in principle, make for greater vine stress. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300