NV Champagne Alexandre Filaine Cuvée Spéciale

The NV Champagne SP Brut is roughly equal parts from the 2021 and 2020 vintages, all from Damery, with everything being done by hand. In the winery, Alexandre presses everything together, 45% Pinot Noir, 25% Meunier, and the rest Chardonnay, reflecting the proportions of his vineyard. In the glass, the pours a straw color and reveals an expressive nose that’s ripe with aromas of savory and toasted baguette, marshmallow, ripe red cherries, and fresh flowers. Medium to full body, it has a wonderful note of ripe orange oil, savory saltiness, a long finish. Drink over the coming 15 years. 4,500-5,000 bottles are produced each year.

The current release of the NV Champagne Cuvée Spéciale Brut is based on the 2018 vintage and is 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and the rest Meunier. The nose is beautifully rounded and vinous, with red fruit, crushed flowers, light toast, and graham cracker. It is full and rounded on the palate without being heavy and has incredible balance and salinity, as well as a silky texture. It is hard to resist drinking now, but it will certainly improve over the next ten years. Fabrice Gass, formerly of Bollinger, is based in Damery, in the Montagne de Reims. He began making the wines while he was still their winemaker and continues to use old Bollinger barrels at his home estate. He works organically and only produces approximately 5000 bottles a year.

Vinous, interesting and really flavoursome – this is artisanal champagne with loads of flavour and density. Great clarity – not much autolysis but loads of ripe fruit to make up for it. (RH)