2009 Georges Duboeuf Morgon Jean Descombes

Effusively and sweetly fruity as usual, the 2009 Morgon Jean Descombes (tasted from tank) is scented with creme de cassis, black raspberry preserves and pear liqueur; silkenly saturates the palate with rich yet infectiously juicy fruit concentrate; and introduces a saline note that along with its sense of juicy freshness makes for a stimulating finish. This perennially outstanding value will probably pick up more complexity over the next 12-18 months and be worth following for at least twice that long. (That said, in the form of La Chaponne and Mont Chavy, Jean Descombes has, for a change, got serious competition in this vintage from within the Duboeuf portfolio.) The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.) Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463