2010 Domaine de la Côte de l'Ange Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

If you can find any, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes, which comes from nearly 80-year-old vines planted in sandy and limestone soils, is a blend of 85% Grenache aged in foudres and 15% Mourvedre aged in small oak casks. The 2007 version of this wine is prodigious, but this is close and may even eclipse that wine, but time will be the final arbiter. Dense purple, with a full-bodied mouthfeel, loads of blackberry fruit, intense kirsch, oodles of licorice, lavender, and garrigue notes, this is layered, sumptuous, full-throttle wine with good acidity, sweet, moderate tannin, and a skyscraper-like mouthfeel and finish. Drink this sensational wine over the next 20-25 years. It is one of the great wines of the vintage. This estate, run by Yannick and Corinne Gasparri, is at the top of its game, as recent vintages over the last decade have all been very strong. The introduction of the two special cuvees, the Cuvee Vieilles Vignes and the Mourvedre-dominated Secret de L’Ange, provides further evidence of their talent and access to fabulous fruit. The 2010s are brilliant wines across the board. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

A noticeable step up, the 2010 Vieilles Vignes is a smoking Châteauneuf-du-Pape that has loads of richness and concentration, while at the same time, never losing its Provencal style. A blend of 80% old vine Grenache and 20% Mourvedre (aged in new barrels), it is more dense, concentrated, and structured than the traditional cuvee and has pure black currant, garrigue, roasted meats, smoked mesquite, and distinct minerality (among other things) flowing to a full-bodied, layered, and structured palate. Still firm and tight in the mouth, it needs 3-5 years of bottle age to fully fleshy out and integrate its tannin structure. It will have 12-15 years of overall longevity.

(80% grenache and 20% mourvedre, aged in barriques): Glass-staining ruby. Powerful aromas of dark berries and cherry compote are lifted by orange pith and candied lavender. Broad, palate-staining red and dark berry flavors show impressive depth and pick up spiciness with air. Finishes sweet and long, with resonating floral and spice notes.