2007 Perrin & Fils Gigondas La Gille

The 2007 Gigondas Le Gille is performing even better than it was last year. A 2,500-case blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah grown in sandy soils, it exhibits sweet tannins, beautifully rich black raspberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with unmistakable minerality, and full body. It was obviously harvested at full phenolic maturity, and should age nicely for 10-15+ years. One of the great estates of the Rhone Valley, Chateau Beaucastel has been run by several generations of the Perrin family, beginning with the late Jacques Perrin (who died in 1978), then the brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois, and now their sons Thomas, Marc, Pierre, and Mathieu. Beaucastel has nearly 200 acres in vine in Chateauneuf du Pape, and they have branched out with an impressive operation under the Perrin et Fils label, purchasing grapes and acquiring land (in Vinsobres and Gigondas, for example). Their goal is to become the most recognized name for high quality wines in the southern Rhone. As shrewd consumers know, one of the best values in under $10 a bottle wine is La Vieille Ferme. The Perrin et Fils cuvees include wines made from purchased grapes as well as their new acquisitions in Vinsobres, Gigondas (25 acres), and the Cotes du Rhone village of Cairanne (35 acres). The Perrins enjoyed tremendous success with their 2008 red wines, largely because yields ranged between 18 hectoliters per hectare for Beaucastel, to only 20 hectoliters per hectare for Coudoulet. The mildew that affected everyone was the culprit. The entire family acknowledged there was an extraordinary triage and culling out of the grapes at the sorting tables. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Vivid red. Fresh red berry and cherry aromas complicated by anise and white pepper. Zesty redcurrant and cherry flavors are braced by firm minerality and framed by silky tannins. Gains sweetness on the pure, focused finish.