2009 Bornard Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Les Gaudrettes

Like his “Blanc de la Rouge” cuvee, Bornard’s 2009 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Les Gaudrettes is bottled after just under two years. It displays juicy Bosc pear and Persian melon on a silken-textured and relatively broad palate. Polished and pure-fruited yet, for all of its richness, quite buoyant, this is hardly the most complex of Jura Chardonnays but, as one of the fruitiest, certainly harbors seductive appeal. I would plan on enjoying it over the next couple of years. Philippe Bornard’s imposing, ancient cellar belonged to his grandparents – to whom he also owes many of his best vines – and occupies an impressive outlook above the village of Pupillin. Bornard is that rarity in the Jura, someone at least as renowned for his reds as for his whites. The approach here is high-risk with low or no sulfur and no filtration, but the rewards can at least sometimes be generous. Due to time constraints, I did not taste the entire large collection at this address, but I did assess the majority of it. A Savio Soares Selection, New York, NY; tel. (917) 797-4114