2006 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner M Smaragd

The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd M comes from around 70% Loibnerberg with the balance from at least four other sites, all picked by the 10th of November. Wonderfully deep, with coffee, caramelized peach, tobacco, and an intensity of black raspberry that put one in mind of a red wine, this deals effortlessly with its 15% alcohol, finishing heat-free, with ample primary juiciness and with plenty of flavor nuance. I can’t recall when I tasted an “M” bottling as richly-satisfying and un-exaggerated as this. I would plan on following it for at least 7-9 years, recognizing that in a few years its cellar potential (or perhaps the emergence of alcoholic heat) will be more evident. Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800