2008 Marie Courtin Eloquance

Smoke, ash, white flowers and white orchard fruit are all layered into the 2008 Extra Brut Eloquence (Chardonnay), a Champagne that comes across like a top Meursault with bubbles. Layers of fruit continue to build effortlessly to a huge, palate-staining finish. This is another wine endowed with tons of personality and pure class. The cooler year brings out the more vibrant, taut qualities of Chardonnay. Disgorged March 2012.

Smoke, ash, white flowers and white orchard fruit are all layered into the 2008 Extra Brut Eloquence (Chardonnay), a Champagne that comes across like a top Meursault with bubbles. Layers of fruit continue to build effortlessly to a huge, palate-staining finish. This is another wine endowed with tons of personality and pure class. The cooler year brings out the more vibrant, taut qualities of Chardonnay. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Disgorged March 2012. Proprietress Dominique Morneau embodies all of the qualities of the artisan approach in Champagne. Hers are some of the most adventurous, cutting edges Champagnes readers will come across. Biodynamic farming, the use of natural yeasts, and low or no dosage are some of the elements that inform these wines. Above all else, the Marie-Courtin Champagnes are made with meticulously grown fruit that makes the above possible. Readers who want to explore the outer boundaries of Champagne should pay close attention to this tiny, emerging estate in the Cote des Bars, a previously under the radar part of the region that continues to produced a bevy of compelling wines. A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Galaxy Wine Company, Portland, (OR); tel. (503) 248-9493, Cream Wine Company, Chicago, (IL); tel. (312) 421-1900