2003 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera
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Tasting notes
The 2003 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is impeccable. The breadth and richness of the year are both very much present. This is one of the more opulent, full-bodied Gavarinis I can remember tasting at Grasso. This vintage will give readers who may be new to the Grasso Barolos some idea of how these wines age, which is spectacularly. Orange peel, white truffle, cinnamon, mint and red berries all flesh out as this dramatic, full-bodied Barolo shows off its class and pedigree. The 2003 is simply gorgeous today. The tannins are remarkably polished, especially within the context of the year. Slight hints of development are present on the bouquet, but the 2003 is far from being mature. It should drink well for another 10-15 years, which is longer than the overwhelming majority of other wines in this vintage. Gianluca Grasso adds that the altitude of the vineyard was key in preserving freshness.
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Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Medium red-amber; less saturated than the 2004. Nose dominated by a walnut quality and some mellow oak tones. Plump, sweet and suave, with good concentration and surprising minerality. Finishes with firm but fairly even, supple tannins. Fresher in the mouth than on the nose, but still in a rather nutty style. Grasso admits that "it's hard to say how this will age," but believes it will enjoy a 10-to-15-year lifetime. The family picked very early in this hot year, bringing in the Casa Mate between September 10 and 15. "We had high sugars and low acids in 2003, with less than perfect phenolic maturity," he explained. "But we didn't want to wait another week for 100% phenolic ripeness because the alcohols would have been too high and the acids even lower."
The 2003 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is an elegant, perfumed wine that flows seamlessly onto the palate with remarkable length and purity. Although it doesn't have the delineation of the finest vintages, this is a very strong effort, with everything beautifully kept in balance, including a very elegant use of oak. While I typically prefer the Ginestra here, in 2003 I have a slight preference for the Chiniera as it has retained a touch more freshness.
The 2003 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is an elegant, perfumed wine that flows seamlessly onto the palate with remarkable length and purity. Although it doesn’t have the delineation of the finest vintages, this is a very strong effort, with everything beautifully kept in balance, including a very elegant use of oak. While I typically prefer the Ginestra here, in 2003 I have a slight preference for the Chiniera as it has retained a touch more freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Elio Grasso is one of those producers who for some reason doesn’t seem to receive the recognition he deserves. While that is unfortunate, it does mean the wines are often available at very reasonable prices. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; Tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; Tel. (503) 289-9600