2018 Laurent Perrier

Pre-release. To be launched in spring 2026. 52% Chardonnay from Le-Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Cramant and Chouilly, 48% Pinot Noir from Verzy, Louvois, Aÿ, Tours-sur-Marne and Ambonnay. Aged for 7 years on lees. Chef de cave Olivier Vigneron considers the 2018 growing season a bit like 2025: ‘a wet, complicated year. Winter was very wet then from April it was warm, even hotter than 2003. Fast growing with flowering early June, then fine and dry.’ They began picking Pinot Noir on 23/4 August and 27 August start for Chardonnay. There were only 82 days between flowering and harvest. A very big crop, a little less than 2004. Apparently the fruit was very aromatic but Laurent-Perrier specifically don’t want too-exuberant Pinots, preferring elegance. 2015 was the last Laurent-Perrier Brut Millesimé before this, 2012 before that. (From the 1950s to now, they have declared only 31 vintages cf 52 being the norm). Dosage 7.5 g/l after nearly 7 years on lees. Disgorged January 2025. Very fine bead. Savoury nose – almost like white burgundy – lightly smoky. Quite explosive on the palate! Citrus peel and even a little grapefruit peel. Olivier Vigneron thinks that, like 2004, it is not especially expressive but will last forever. Very introvert currently with great tension. Even a little chewy on the end. It really opened out in the glass – mellowed! – however. (JR)