2019 Champagne Christophe Baron Champagne Le Dessus du Bois Marie Crouttes-sur-Marne
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From a south-facing parcel planted in 1966, Christophe Baron's 2019 Brut Nature Le Dessus du Bois Marie, disgorged in May 2023 without dosage, is showing superbly. It erupts from the glass with a medley of early-blooming white flowers, peach and pear, mingling with tangerine zest and a hint of raspberry. Medium to full-bodied, it is concentrated and pillowy, with ripe but lively acidity, ample underlying tension and a long, chalky finish. Compared to the muscular and expansive 2018 edition, the 2019 displays greater harmony and a sense of completeness. As ever, it hails from a site characterized by shallow soils—just 30 centimeters deep—over solid limestone.
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James Suckling
Jeb Dunnuck
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This has a beautiful bouquet of pink grapefruit, almond croissants, frangipani flowers, nectarines and cherry stones. So fresh, silky and elegant on the palate, with a lovely interplay of just-ripe fruit, flowers and delicate pastry. Itâs bone-dry, but very far from austere. 100% pinot meunier, from a vineyard planted in 1966. From organically grown grapes. In magnums only. Zero dosage. Disgorged May 2023. Drink or hold.
Translating to "Above Marie's Wood," the 2019 Champagne Le Dessus Du Bois Marie Brut Nature is from a single vineyard in Crouttes-sur-Marne in the Marne Valley and is also entirely composed of Meunier. It pours a golden straw hue and is more expressive on opening, with a floral perfume of honeysuckle, orange blossoms, wild strawberry, and savory broth. Ripe and medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with a pillowy mousse, leaving behind notes of citrus oils and a silky mineral texture. Well-balanced, with a lot of charm, it’s approachable now but will benefit and improve over the coming 8-10 years. Drink 2024-2036.
The 2019 Brut Nature Le Dessus Du Bois Marie is very accessible and open. Showing ample Meunier character, with rather soft contours and gorgeous structure, this wafts from the glass with yellow flowers, sage, mint, chalk and crushed rocks. The 2019 is a wine of understatement and class, notwithstanding its vinous intensity. Zero dosage. Disgorged: May, 2023.