2018 Moussé Fils Special Club Les Fortes Terres

Named for the lieu-dit in the village of Cuisles, the 2018 Champagne Les Fortes Terres Brut is entirely Meunier and, in fact, was the first entirely Meunier wine of the house. Elegant and pillowy, with crystalline saline accents throughout, it pours a medium-straw color and offers aromas of golden peaches, ripe raspberry, flinty wet stone, and cooling spearmint. Medium to full-bodied, the mousse is refined and accentuates the wine’s mineral persistence, with a long, mouthwatering finish with notes of white pepper. It trades in the house’s generally broad shoulders, with a sporty and refined structure, as well as lively tension throughout. For fans of these wines, it should be noted that while it doesn’t offer the depth we are accustomed to seeing (possibly due to the high-yielding vintage), it’s an exceptional offering from Cedric Mousse and his team, with the potential to age a decade or more. Drink 2025-2035. A mere 0.5 grams per liter of dosage, and disgorged January 2023. Based in the village of Cuisles in the Vallée de la Marne, Famille Moussé has made a slight adjustment to their winery name, which was formerly known as Moussé Fils when Cedric’s sister rejoined the family estate. The change takes effect with this year’s releases and is represented with an updated labelling design. In 2019, they made a few subtle but impactful adjustments with the handling of their fruit. First, they moved away from the classic 40-kilogram bins used at harvest to transport fruit to the winery and instead sized down to small 10 kilogram crates to prevent premature oxidation that can happen when berries are crushed by their own weight. As a Meunier-focused house, this is especially top of mind. At the domaine, they have also introduced two Coquard vertical presses to bring additional focus and control to preserve freshness. Their 7.2 hectares are farmed organically and have been operating from a cellar built in 2012 that produces zero emissions. With this year’s releases, they are taking sustainability further by moving to paper capsule coverings. All the wines are raised in stainless steel without the use of oak barrels.