2016 Riesling Vinothek Smaragd

This reflects an upper area of Loibenberg whose vines were left hanging until last and picked up some botrytis, perhaps in part on account of the proximity to humidity-trapping woods. It conveys a wonderful sense of richness, yet with the fresh juiciness and subtly cooling herbal inflections that are features of so many 2016s, as well as fruit pit piquancy supplying welcome counterpoint to succulent, ripe white peach and mango. Just as strikingly, this entire performance seems to be headily draped in wisteria. Not only is there abundant glycerol on the palate, but there is also underlying polish, botrytis having worked its charms stealthily and with restraint. A sweet-saline, iodine-laced evocation of lobster-shell reduction lends mouthwatering savor to the superbly sustained finish. This blows past the corresponding 2015 – though not in the sense of being more powerful. I sometimes find the designation “Vinothek bottling” misleading in that the Knolls’ wines so labeled often strike me as significantly less suited to long-term cellaring than other wines from this estate. But in the present instance I have no such reservations.