2005 Cédric Bouchard (Roses de Jeanne) Vintage La Bolorée Blanc de Blancs
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The 2005 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée was Cédric Bouchard's first rendition of this old-vine Pinot Blanc cuvée, from a small 0.217-hectare parcel planted in 1960. Bouchard acquired these vines by hazard when he draw the short straw while dividing some vineyards with another vigneron; he decided to make a virtue of necessity by pushing the parameters of the possible with Pinot Blanc, subsequently discovering that his part of the Aube in general and the sandy-clay soils over Marne chalk of La Bolorée in particular were the historical heartlands of this under-appreciated cépage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, yellow apples, honeycomb and toasted almonds, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with an open and expressive core, ripe acids and a saline finish. From the original disgorgement, this is drinking at its peak today.
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Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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This small vineyard, originally planted in 1960, measures just 0.2107 hectares and is one of the few terrains in Champagne that is composed of pure chalk. Bouchard was attracted to this small strip for its old vines of Pinot Blanc, which is quite unusual in Champagne. Neighboring parcels are planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The exposure is due south, which along with the age of the vines, confers significant power, richness and structure to the wines. The 2005 Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée is rich, round and creamy in its massive expression of tropical fruit. In this tasting the 2005 La Bolorée comes across as incredibly young and tightly wound. It will be interesting to see how this develops, for now it is all about potential, and there is no shortage of that here. The 2005 is Bouchard's first vintage from this old-vine parcel of Pinot Blanc.
The 2005 Blanc de Blancs Rosés de Jeanne (La Bolorée) is an unusual 100% Pinot Blanc (from 40 year-old vines) made from a tiny parcel measuring less than a quarter of a hectare planted to a dense 8,000 vines per hectare. The wine is quite a bit more focused and energetic than the richer 2005 Haute-Lemblée, most likely owing to the presence of chalk in this particular site. Perfumed and silky throughout, La Bolorée sings with tons of varietal detail and impeccable balance yet it remains young (almost painfully so) and in need of at least a few years on the cork. This is an exceptionally pure, vinous Champagne to marvel over. Sadly, there are just 1,000 bottles to go around. La Bolorée spent 38 months on its lees. Disgorged April 16, 2009.