2005 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieux Terron

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieux Terron exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, again plenty of pepper, incense, nori, and a boatload of kirsch and black currant fruit. The wine is rich, medium to full-bodied, quite layered, and impressively endowed. It should drink well for 12 or more years. Readers need to differentiate between the estate wines, which appear under the “Domaine Grand Veneur” name, and the burgeoning number of high quality negociant wines made by this producer, which are bottled under the name “Alain Jaume.” First the estate wines: these two brilliant vintages for Jaume continue an almost unbroken record of highly successful wines that goes back well over a decade (and they are still fairly priced). This is definitely a modernist take on Chateauneuf du Pape, but the wines never lose the soul and typicity of Provence. They are impeccably well-made, pure, and deeply colored. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

Inky violet. Ripe blackberry and cassis aromas lifted by subtle lavender and black pepper accents. Fresh and tangy, with bright red and dark berry flavors leading to a long, peppery finish. Tannins are firm.