NV Edmond Barnaut Brut Rosé Authentique

Saignée from Bouzy grand cru. Bumptious and brazen with a saucy little sneer of Campari-like bitters. I like the little tug of bitter orange, wormwood, rose hip and hot white pepper with a slick of strawberry syrup. Rambunctious fun. Solid. Proper barbecue champagne! You could easily pair this with smoky chipotle-marinaded ribs. (TC)

85% Pinot Noir from Bouzy, 15% Chardonnay. Hand-picked grapes. Berry maceration in tanks for one to three days – the colour comes from red-berry maceration rather than blending white wine with red wine. Sur lattes for five years. Dosage 6 g/l. 15,000 bottles. Deep colour. Wild strawberries, juicy, great texture – like crumpled tissue paper dusted with spice. Inherently vinous rather than 'pink champagne'. Lots of fruit, but layering cooked fruit with fresh fruit interpolated with a long, deep tang. A substantial rosé for people who love interesting food and flavours. GV  (TC)

Disgorged in March 2020, the latest rendition of Barnaut's NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru opens in the glass to reveal aromas of plums, red berries and spices, framed by a touch of reduction that doesn't dissipate with aeration. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and phenolic, its somewhat reduced profile holds back my score.