2005 Domaine de Panisse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Confidence Vigneronne

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Confidence Vigneronne is a full-bodied, layered, rich, dense ruby/purple-colored wine with superb fruit purity and loads of smoke, barbecue spices, and jammy black raspberries and black cherries. It’s a beauty and should drink nicely now and over the next 12-15 years. Young vigneron Jean-Marie Olivier hit pay dirt with his brilliant 2000s but then seemed to zigzag between irregularity and consistency over the following four vintages. He has come back strong in 2005 as well as 2006, so hopefully this will become an increasingly reliable estate to follow. There are three cuvees of wine in most vintages, although in 2005 only two showed up at my tasting. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400

Deep ruby. Ripe cherry and licorice on the nose, with a hint of mocha. Very ripe in the mouth, showing cherry-cola and mocha flavors, supple tannins and a long, chewy finish. This will need full-flavored food.