2005 Domaine de Panisse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Noble Revelation

Patience will be required of the backward, formidably endowed 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Noble Revelation. Opaque purple in color, this wine seems to start off in a modern style with some hints of licorice, espresso roast, and copious quantities of creme de cassis and blackberry. However, in the mouth Provencal garrigue notes intermixed with plum, Asian spice, soy, and some other exotic characteristics seem to emerge. This is a distinctive, full-throttle, powerful Chateauneuf du Pape that requires 4-5 years of bottle age and should keep for at least two decades. Young vigneron Jean-Marie Olivier hit pay dirt with his brilliant 2000s but then seemed to zigzag between irregularity and consistency over the following four vintages. He has come back strong in 2005 as well as 2006, so hopefully this will become an increasingly reliable estate to follow. There are three cuvees of wine in most vintages, although in 2005 only two showed up at my tasting. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400

Dark violet. Assertive and exotic on the nose, with rich raspberry and strawberry jam scents. Then quite fresh in the mouth, with bright red berry flavors, fine-grained tannins and a long, lively aftertaste. A lingering apricot note adds complexity.